Basic guide

DeletedUser

Guest
Ok so this is something I threw together for my tribe on w35, most of which were playing on their first world... Comments/constructive criticism is appreciated =]

Edit: Give me a bit to get the sizing down right.




Slaya2’s guide


Table of contents
1…. The Beginning
2…. Unit overviews
3…. Nobling your first village
4…. Specialization? What is it and how do I do it?
5…. Fakes.. what are they and what is their use?
6…. Advanced warefare… huh?
7….Buildings… what are they for again?


note… nothing in here is a mandate to be successful… just general rules of thumbs, and suggestions for how to last a little bit longer

Part ONE…. The Beginning
Ok, so you started on a new world today, and want to know what to do. The answer is more complex than you would think, as the strategy depends on starting LEVELS. Beginner’s protection also has a large part of how you open up.

Heres a scenario for you to ponder.
Say you start with ONLY the HQ lvl 1, Warehouse 1, and farm 1, and there is ZERO BP. What should you do?

Many of you will probably jump to get your wall built, and your warehouse up a couple of levels, however that is generally a BAD idea. In this scenario, you want to get to barracks ASAP. Bump your HQ up to level 3, then build your barracks. Once you get barracks, you can either start churning out troops, or build your resources up a bit. The option you choose should vary based on who is around you, how many barbs are near you, how active those around you are, etc.

One thing you SHOULD do ASAP is start taking notes on everyone in your 20x20. THIS IS A MUST DO REGARDLESS OF THE STARTING SITUATION. Jot down their growth rates. If they jump to 200P in the first 3 hours, then you know they are not building troops, and as such will be an easy target for farming.


A second scenario:
You start with accelerated startup. (HQ 3, Warehouse 3, farm 3, resources 6) and BP set for 3 days.

Again, your startup should be done based on your surroundings. One thing you should note, however, is that walls are not needed in the first 3 days. During this time, no one can attack you! What is the point, if you build them, you are wasting resources you could use to build 1… 2… 3, etc spearmen to use on farming. The same goes for the market. For the first week(ish) no one will be offering up anything but Iron, and they will only be accepting wood for it. There is no point in building the market in the first week(ish), unless all you care about is points. If this is the case, stop reading my guide now, as it will just be a waste of time for you and your pointwhoring.

Generally speaking, the objective of the game early on is to put yourself in a position of power over those surrounding you. You WANT to be the bully of the area. You WANT people to fear you, and to be afraid of attacking you. How do you do that? Build troops. LOTS of them. Farm. A lot. THERE IS NO ALTERNATE MEANS OF DOING THIS. An experienced player will not be turned away based on a large amount of points in the early game. It is sad how many people compare points to power, expecially in the early game. The only real means of power is troops, and knowing how to use them… Thus I give you the…

2… Unit Overview
In this section I will go over each unit, its strengths, its weaknesses, and suggest various ways to use said unit at different points in the game.

FOOTSOLDIERS
NOTE: all footsoldiers only cost 1 population to train.
First, the Spearman.

Cost:
Wood: 50
Clay: 30
Iron: 10

Right off the bat, we know that this unit will leave you with an excess of iron when you produce it en masse.
What is the spearman’s fighting capabilities?

Attack: 10(called ATK from now on)
Footsoldier Defense: 15(called FD from now on)
Mounted Defense: 45(called MD from now on)
Archer Defense: 20(called AD from now on)

Ok, so now we know that the spearman sucks at attacking. Its footsoldier defense isn’t that great either, though there is something interesting to be noted there! The spearman is a footsoldier. This means that it would take 2 spearman on the offense to kill 1 spearman on the defense… it comes out to a 3:2 offense:defense ratio.
The spearman’s strength lies in its mounted defense. It is the strongest defensive unit against mounted units(per population) in the game.
Its archer defense is also nice to know, as on certain worlds, archers are in effect.

I will not place movement speeds, as those vary based on the world, however, it should be noted that spears can haul 25 resources. It is for this reason that they are the early game farmers.

Second is the swordsman
Cost:
Wood: 30
Clay: 30
Iron: 70

This unit is almost the polar opposite of the spear in terms of cost. Making swords en masse will leave you with a great NEED for iron.
Fighting capabilities:

ATK: 25
FD: 50
MD: 15
AD: 40

Ok so, this is interesting. The spearman and the swordsman are almost polar opposites in all fields. Costs, fighting… Once again, the attack of the swordsman is low, while its defense is high.
Its strength lies in its FD, and its AD. This guy is there to stop axes and Mounted Archers in their tracks. If he tries to tango with a Light Cavalry, however, he will wind up with a javelin through his heart.

Swordsmen probably are not needed until 2.5 days into the game, where you have about 10-12 hours left for your BP to end. Even then, I only suggest you build around 25-50 of them, as they will mow down most attacking forces for the next day or two.

Swordsmen are THE slowest footsoldier in the game. Not only that, but they cannot carry very much. They can only carry 15 resources. Because of this, most players leave their swords at home almost all game.

Third is Axemen:
Cost:
Wood: 60
Clay: 30
Iron: 40

Ahhh this is interesting… Finally we have a relatively balanced unit in terms of cost of production. Axes will not leave you with large mounds of much of anything, which is nice.

Fighting prowess:
ATK: 40
FD: 10
MD: 5
AD: 10

Wowza!!! Don’t leave this guy at home alone, because he will die fast. Axes are marvelous attackers, but horrible defenders. Axes will compose the majority of your nukes later in the game.

On a side note, they travel at the same speed as spearmen, yet can only carry 10 resources, making them rather useless at farming unless you have large numbers of them.

Something you should know!!! Remember back in section 1 how I said your objective early on is to instill fear in the hearts of those near you? Guess what?! This is how. Axes. Lots of them. Early on in the game, axes are your only good offensive unit. You can use them to great effect if you know how.

Fourth, and last of the footsoldiers, is the Archer.
Cost:[/bu]
Wood: 100
Clay: 30
Iron: 60

So.. this is interesting. You may have noticed that the cost of making each footsoldier has the same amount of clay needed… 30. You will never need more than 30 clay to build a single footsoldier.

Fighting Factors:
ATK: 15
FD: 50
MD: 40
AD: 5

Archers find their great strength, and their great weakness in their defensive capabilities. If there was no way to attack with archers, they would be hands down THE best defensive unit in the game. That is not, however, the case. Archers are good at picking off the mounted units AND the ground-bound units. Archers are regarded by many as the best defensive unit in the game, and there is a reason for that. If you doubt their abilities, try playing around with the simulator, and you will soon realize that archers are a lynchpin to a strong defense, they are, simultaneously, the weakness of a strong defense.

Side notes: Archers suck at farming, just like the axe, and, just like the axe, travel at the same speed as spearmen.
This concludes the FOOTSOLDIERS portion of section 2… COFFEE BREAK!!?!!!
Mounted Units
First, Scouts

Cost:
Wood: 50
Clay: 50
Iron: 20

Once again, we are reminded of spearmen… You will be left with a lot of leftover iron if you mass produce spies.

Fighting prowess:
ATL: 0
FD: 2
MD: 1
AD: 2

Ok so now you are probably wondering: WTF??!? Is the purpose in scouts. Well, the name says it all. They are for scouting other villages, so you can know what you are faced with.

These guys cannot carry any loot, and are the fastest unit in the game. They are also protected by special rules.
When attacking, only defending scouts can kill attacking scouts. It takes 3 scouts defending to kill 1 scout…. Scouting.
When defending, however, scouts are vulnerable to everyone… Except attacking scouts. When scouts are attacking, they cannot kill anything(not even that annoying fly on your wall).

SIDE NOTE: Scouts cost TWO population to build!!!

Second is Light Cavalry
Cost:
Wood: 125
Clay: 100
Iron: 250

So we have another swordsman-esk unit. The light cavalry(LC from now on) uses up a lot of iron in its production.
Fighting pwr:
ATK: 130
FD: 30
MD: 40
AD: 30

Ok, so they are good at attacking. That is useful to know. Something else you should know is that their attack power falls into the “Mounted attack” category, and defenders will use their MD to defend against them. This means that spears are the best defenders against LC. LC are actually decent defenders, however, they are not as good as a well-built defense. As such, I do NOT recommend using them as defenders.

Additionally, LC are the second fastest unit in the game, second only to scouts. Now, here is something that will make you happy. LC can carry 80 resources.

SIDE NOTE: LC cost FOUR population to train!!!

Later on, I will explain why this does NOT make them the best farmer(efficiency-wise).

Third, is the Mounted Archer
Cost:
Wood: 250
Clay: 100
Iron: 125

Remind you of anything?
Bullying Capabilities:
ATK: 120
FD: 40
MD: 30
AD: 50

Once again, we have an attacking unit. These guys, however, are different than both the axe and the LC. They are ARCHERS. When a defender is defending against them, their AD is what is used. As such, they are the key to removing the lynchpin of a strong defense. Do you remember what I was talking about back while discussing the Archer? These guys are your best bet at taking out a lot of archers.

If you think they are worthless, I urge you to play around with the simulator.

Mounted Archers travel at the same speed as LC, and can carry 50 resources.

SIDE NOTE: they cost FIVE population to train!!!

Fourth, and finally, the Heavy Calvary (HC from now on)
Cost:
Wood: 200
Clay:150
Iron: 600

Wowza! That’s a lot of iron! Yea, these guys will suck up a lot of resources as you build them, however it is worth it in the end. Check out what those resources buy you:
ATK: 150
FD: 200
MD: 80
AD: 180

Ok, so. We now know that the HC is the strongest individual defender in the game, however, once you break things down, they are simultaneously one of the weakest. Because they cost 6 population to train, their true effectiveness is divided by 6.

They are the third fastest unit in the game, and can haul 50 resources, just like the Mounted Archer.

Side Note: HC cost SIX population to train!!!

Ok, so now we are done with the Mounted Units section… time to move on.

Rolled Units
Ok, so what? I couldn’t think of a better name for them. What you gonna do about it?

First is the Ram.
Cost:
Wood: 300
Clay: 200
Iron:200

More Wood than anything else… yadda yadda yadda.

Ok, now here is where things get interesting. Their usefulness is different from that of your average attacker.
ATK: 2
FD: 20
MD: 50
AD: 20

Yes, you read that right, he has TWO attacking power. So now you must be wondering… how does he knock down those walls, and what is the ratio for it?

For this, I am not that good at explaining, so I turn you to cheesasaurus’ guide to rams: CLICKY

Rams have two attacks per battle. They have the very first action of the battle, before any attacks or defenses take place. Then they also attack again when your nuke itself hits(axes, LC, Mounted Archers, etc)

It is generally regarded that 225ish rams is a good number to have with your nuke, and here is a graph to show the ratio:
k9burn


SIDE NOTE: rams cost FIVE population to train!!!

With that I conclude the ram portion, as it is very difficult to explain how to use them well.

Second is catapults.

Cost:
Wood: 320
Clay: 400
Iron 100

No that is not a typo, it is the first unit we have encountered where clay is the most needed resource.

Once again, I am not very good at explaining catapults, so I leave you to this graph, and your simulator.

k9burn


It is best to send your catapults in waves, as, in order to knock a level 30 building all the way down, it would require around 9000 population, leaving very little room for a useful village.

One thing that has been thought of before is making a turtle village out of catapults.
In order to understand how this works, you need to know a couple things
First
ATK: 100
FD: 100
MD: 50
AD: 100

These guys are pretty good defenders, right? Guess what, with a certain combination, they get EVEN BETTER. You may recall, from your own personal experience, that paladins (on certain worlds) get weapons. One of them is for the catapult, it doubles the damage they do, and increases their defensive prowess by TENFOLD. Yes, you read that right. When you have a paladin equipped with the catapult weapon, the defense becomes
FD: 1000
MD: 500
AD: 1000

This is the single strongest defensive unit PER POPULATION UNIT. You are now probably thinking “great, now I have ONE SINGLE village safe and secure.” But think twice! I will explain why in the next section…

SIDE NOTE: catapults require EIGHT population to train!!!

Specialty Units
Paladin(pally from here on out)
Cost:
Wood: 20
Clay: 20
Iron: 40

Ok, so the guy is pretty cheap, he must be terrible, right? WRONG.
Pallys are considered the most useful unit in the game.
He has multiple upsides, with only one downside.
ATK: 150
FD: 250
MD: 400
AD: 150

HOLY SHIT!!! That dude is an awesome defender!!!

Whats better, is he gets items(on certain worlds) that make the units accompanying him fight better. Check the forums for the complete list, and their effects.

But wait! Theres more! When sending support to or from a village, and that support includes the pally, the ENTIRE GROUP moves at the speed of the pally.

Remember the catapult, and how it became that uber-awesome defensive unit overnight? Now its that uber-awesome defensive SUPPORTING unit… overnight.

The pally moves at the speed of LC, and carries 100 resources.

Now for the downsides
1) the pally costs 10 population to worship
2) each player only gets ONE.. not per village, per PLAYER.



Second special unit is the noble.
The cost of each noble depends on the world, so it will not be included.

Fighting power.
ATK: 30
FD: 100
MD: 50
AD: 100

Special notes:
1) the noble is required to take over villages
2) the noble dies when 50% of your attacking force dies.
3) The noble must survive the battle to reduce the defending village’s loyalty
4) The noble is THE slowest unit in the game.
5) Nobles cost 100 population to educate!!!


This concludes part 2… Unit overview


Part 3… Nobling your first village
In this section I will explain the basics of nobling. I will not tell you how to use them or anything like that. Things like that are up to you to figure out

Ok so, what is a noble? A noble is a unit. To be more specific, it is a footsoldier.
Nobles are specialty units, however, so they follow special rules.

Based on the world you are on, nobles follow either packet rules, or they follow coin rules.

The packet system is relatively straight-forward. Nobles cost “packets.” What is a packet, you ask?

Simple, a packet is a combination of 28.000 wood, 30.000 clay, and 25.000 iron. Those resources = one packet. In order to make a packet, you must have all of them present in your village at the same time to create a packet.

Under the packet system, academies have 3 levels. Each level increases your nobleman-limit by 1. This limit includes all academy levels from all of your villages.

In order to educate a noble, you must have a nobleman-limit of AT LEAST one. Not only that, but you must have a certain number of packets. How many packets do I need, you ask? Well there is an equation to this, but it is pretty easy when you get down to it.

The equation is:
Needed packets = number of nobles currently owned PLUS the number of nobles currently BEING educated PLUS the number of villages you own MINUS one.

Everytime you educate a noble, your nobleman-limit is decreased by ONE.

Packets can be stored in your academy, allowing you to use them in other villages. All of the totals of nobles owned, and nobles being educated are accumulated from all of your villages combined.

The Coin system is similar.

In the coin system, academies have only one level. When using the packet system, the nobleman-limit is increased based on total levels of academies. Under the coin system, the nobleman-limit is increased based on the number of coins you have. Coins operate just like packets, in that each nobleman requires the next tier of coins. Each step up in nobleman-limit requires one additional coin over the last increase.

Once you have enough nobleman-limit, you can educate a noble. Under the coin system, nobles cost 40.000 Wood, 50.000 Clay, and 50.000 Iron.

Noblemen, when sent on attacks, should ALWAYS have accompaniment. Should half of your attacking force die, your nobleman will also perish. In order to affect the loyalty of the defending village, the nobleman MUST survive the battle.

Whenever your noble survives the battle, he will reduce the defending village’s loyalty by anywhere between 20-35. Sending multiple nobles in an attack DOES NOT increase the amount of loyalty lost by the defender. At start, your village has 100 loyalty. The amount your loyalty recovers per hour varies based on the Game Speed of the world you are playing on.

Once you reduce the loyalty of a village to zero, or lower, the nobleman in the last attack disappears. Not only this, but the bodyguards of the noble that you sent with it are stationed in the village. They become support in that village. Once you get that village back on it’s feet, you can withdraw them just like you could withdraw any other support.

Part 4…Specialization? What is it and how do I do it?
Ok, so what is specialization? The simplest way of putting it is having different setups in your villages. You specialize your villages. I am talking about the specialization of troops. When you specialize in a village, it means you only build a certain type of troop in that village. You may recall back in Part 2 when I was talking about the strengths and weaknesses of each unit. Spears, swords, and HC are defensive units, while axes, LC, Mounted Archers, Rams, and Catapults are offensive units. When building up your villages, you should start specializing as soon as possible. The best setup in the game is to have anywhere between 2-4 offensive villages for every ONE of your defensive villages. The point here is that you want to constantly be on the attack.

When you specialize, and you are only building a certain type of unit, how do you determine how much of those certain units to build? Its simple. You want to maximize the offensive power, or defensive power, that you have with the population you have to use.
The typical nuke is somewhere around 9k-10k axes, 1500 LC, 225 rams(if you read that ram article I gave you a link to, you will realize that that is the optimum number of rams).

The typical defense is 6kspears, 9k swords, and the rest on HC. Keep in mind that this is just the typical stuff, and it is up to you to find the perfect setup.

So what is specialization? Its where you only build one type of unit in your villages.
When should you specialize? As soon as possible.

Part 5… Fakes. What are they, and what are they for?
What is a fake? A fake is an attack sent at someone that is not real. In essence, you send 1 ram at someone, to make them think that you are attacking.

Ok so now we know what a fake is, but what purpose does it serve?

Fakes are used in wars, when you have a large number of villages fighting another large number of villages. If a tribe is smart, they will stack defense on those that are under attack. In order to keep the other tribe from stacking, you need to make them all think they are under attack.

Ever want to keep your foe on his toes? Fakes can do that. Ever want to trick your foe into thinking that you aren’t actually attacking him? Fakes can do that. If you keep sending fakes at him/her day after day, eventually they will feel them to be routine, and start ignoring them. This becomes the perfect opportunity to noble them. Send a good nuke at them, followed by the rest of your train. Annnnd boom, you have another village.

Part 6… Advanced warefare… huh?
Ok, so, this is kinda a cumulation of everything discussed in this guide so far. Advanced warfare is the use of tactics to attack, and ultimately rim, an opponent. In order to succeed at advanced warfare, you must employ everything discussed so far. You must employ the use of fakes, you must employ the use of noble trains, you must employ the use of deception. Everything. Anything that you can think of that would trick your opponent into thinking that you are going to do something else works.

For example, on world 28 this week, I was attacking another player. I used only 3 villages to take on his 4. For about 3 days prior to the first noble being sent, I kept hitting him with fake after fake after fake. Then, I nailed his main village with two nukes in a row. 5 hours after those two nukes landed, I scouted his main village, and his other villages, and found that ONLY his main village had defense in it. In order to take some of his villages, I tricked him into thinking I was attacking his main village. I sent 4 fakes to all of his villages, along with support to them, all of this landing within 2 seconds of each other. He did exactly what I thought he would, and sent everything to his main village, expecting that to be where the noble train was headed. The next morning he woke up a village down, albeit it was his weakest village.

You may not see what I am getting at here, but It will come in time.

Another example, once again, on world 28. My tribe is at war with two top 20 tribes. We recently took one of their top players down a couple levels by employing mass attacks. We timed all of our attacks to land on each and every one of his villages at the same time, within 5 seconds of each other. A total of 7 noble trains were sent, and we walked away 7 villages richer. How did we do this? We did not aim for the villages he thought we were going to be aiming for. When you have 400+ attacks incoming on your 100- villages, it becomes very difficult to pick out which ones are real and which ones are fake. In this case, the tactic that was used was mass attacks.

You need to remember, taking the strongest village from someone is not the best idea, in fact, it is often the worst. Yes, yes, I know what you are going to say here—“but then he still has a strong village to counterattack with.”

Yes he does, but at the same time, you also have the troops to prevent that counterattack. It is better to take a weaker village, and only kill only 2k of his troops, than to not take any village at all, kill only 4kish of his troops, meanwhile wasting 10k+ of your troops, and nobles.

Remember that in the end, the point is to take out your opponent while losing as few troops as possible.

I know that this is barely descriptive of advanced warfare, but TRUE advanced warfare never has a set outline. It is adjustable, and changes with each target. In order to plan out advanced warfare, you must know many things about your target. Will be have support? How will he allocate his defensive troops? How experienced is he?

In order to put down an effective strategy, you must take time planning out attacks, and make great use of the http://www.twstats.com/enXX/index.php?page=attack_planner(Remember to enter your world number). Beyond that, it is up to you as the player to come up with your own advanced strategy, and make sure that it gets implemented.
 
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DeletedUser904

Guest
reading, just wait :p ( i just wanted the first post )

Its an okay guide, you tryed to explain too much. You left out large holes in the topics like Advanced warfare, and nobling your first village

I disagree with this statement

"The best setup in the game is to have anywhere between 2-4 offensive villages for every ONE of your defensive villages"

I personaly like to have 2-3 defensive villages for every one of my offensive villages. I usally go with two but sometimes i chose 3. The reason behide this is that it takes alot less time to defend a village than to attack a village. All you really have to do to defend a village is stack it, now with muliple incommings on different villages the stragegy is still the same, stack the villages that need support. Attacking takes a large amount of time to plan, and to send. Also when defending a full defensive village is stronger than a full offensive village so it gives you more flexibility
 
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DeletedUser

Guest
I like it. There are a few things I don't completely agree with but I can tell you put a lot of effort into it and I'm sure it has helped a lot of people :icon_razz:
One thing you SHOULD do ASAP is start taking notes on everyone in your 20x20. THIS IS A MUST DO REGARDLESS OF THE STARTING SITUATION. Jot down their growth rates. If they jump to 200P in the first 3 hours, then you know they are not building troops, and as such will be an easy target for farming.
I've never even heard of this. Seems like too much work to keep up imo. I could probably find the same amount of info on a player in a couple of minutes by checking TWstats and TWmaps.

When I think of the most basic nuke I think of 6.5k axe, 2.5k LC and 250 rams. No big deal.... just thought I'd give my input :p

One last thing. "Part 1" is very vague. It doesn't really describe what to do past day 1. You would have to link them to an actual start-up guide if you were showing this to beginners.
 

DeletedUser

Guest
When I wrote this, the majority of my tribe was well above 1k points, so I felt the need to include detail on the beginning a little low.

and supa, note my very first comment... this is not mandatory, just some suggestions.


This was my first stab at a guide, so I just wanted to see how everyone takes it.


beaver, the whole keep track of them provides detail on how serious they are in playing this world. Someone who is just OK at TW, but is extremely serious at doing well on this world could be a larger danger than someone who is like the best player, but is just playing this world to kill some time.
TWstats/maps doesnt tell you everything.
 

DeletedUser904

Guest
All in all its an okay guide like a said, very nice first attemp i will admit.

I still pefer just to judge players on there growth via the map, if they aren't growing as fast as me i don't have to worry.
 

DeletedUser

Guest
I think it's great that you put so much effort into this guide.

Just my thoughts as I read are that I think that perhaps it's too much information for someone who is new to the game.

Personally I have found the most I have learned is when I have asked someone a question and they have basically asked it right back at me encouraging me to answer it myself by advising me how to find the answers.

It's all very well to give people all the information but that isn't encouraging them to learn for themselves. As this game requires adaptability it is important to be able to think for yourself.
I say this as someone who if I could get away with being bottle fed information forever I would, but I'm greatful to those who refuse to answer every detail of every question I've ever had , as that has made me find out for myself , and I remember things a lot better when I've figured it out for myself .
I think any guide for new players should be very simple and encourage people to use the simulator, look up the units and generally bring them to the knowledge you have put in the guide by guiding them through each process encouraging them to work it out themselves.
I realise you cant do this for every individual and the guide is a great attempt to help other people which I fully respect you for. I just thought I'd add my opinion on helping new players.
This being told if I ask people a question and they refuse to answer I still get annoyed . :icon_eek:
Everyone has different learning styles though , this is just my opinion.

Well done on the hard work and effort you put into that .
:)

<3
 

DeletedUser

Guest
Haha thanks. It took me somewhere around 12 hours to write. Visited the help page countless times ;]

Of all the sections, which do you think is the most helpful?

1, 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6?
 

DeletedUser

Guest
You didn't follow through and explain why you thought LC isnt the most efficient farmer in the game. I'd be interested to hear why you think that?
 

DeletedUser

Guest
You didn't follow through and explain why you thought LC isnt the most efficient farmer in the game. I'd be interested to hear why you think that?
Because the paladin is :lol:
same speed but the paladin can carry 100 resources rather than the LC's 80. Too bad you only get one eh?
 

DeletedUser904

Guest
Haha thanks. It took me somewhere around 12 hours to write. Visited the help page countless times ;]

Of all the sections, which do you think is the most helpful?

1, 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6?

two and four
 

DeletedUser

Guest
You didn't follow through and explain why you thought LC isnt the most efficient farmer in the game. I'd be interested to hear why you think that?

I am a fan of having massive amounts of axes and spears out farming. Im not going to say that early in the game I don't use LC to farm, because I do, but per farm space, spears are more efficient.

All in all, it really depends on your starting location. If you have 8 barbarians surrounding your village all 1 field away, spears are more efficient. For 16 minutes more one way, you can carry 5 more resources per farm space. If your closest farm is 3-4 fields away, LC is always the preferred choice.
 

DeletedUser

Guest
Hmmm, the way I see it if you do the same number of farming trips per day then the spears would be more efficient farmers. But if you are active enough to take advantage of the fact that LC are nearly twice as fast, and can effectively do almost twice as many farming trips per day then surely that would make them the most efficient farmers on a purely theoretical level assuming you were able to use them optimally. Of course form people logging in only once or twice a day who can't take advantage of the LC speed to launch extra trips then presumably they are better off with Spears.
 

DeletedUser

Guest
Haha thanks. It took me somewhere around 12 hours to write. Visited the help page countless times ;]

Of all the sections, which do you think is the most helpful?

1, 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6?

I think 4 is the most helpful . As it is concise , easy to read and something useful to know at the start of the game.

<3
 

DeletedUser

Guest
just one query, in specialization you state you want 9-10k axes, and 1.5k lc,

this may be stronger but if you want the quicker build your going to end up with around 6k axe and 3k lc if you have your barracks/stabe contstanlty pumping troops.
 

DeletedUser1342

Guest
I disagree with this statement

"The best setup in the game is to have anywhere between 2-4 offensive villages for every ONE of your defensive villages"

I personaly like to have 2-3 defensive villages for every one of my offensive villages. I usally go with two but sometimes i chose 3.

Thats all dependent on what strat you use, if your very aggressive then go with more offence, if im using light cav then i normally go about 2:1 off:def if i use the heavy cav strat then i go 4 or 5:1 off:def.

I might try a deffensive approach one day, but i cant see it veing anywhere near as enjoyable as being offensive.

The guide overall is good, especially when you take into account the title of the guide "Basic Guide" im sure if the author wanted it to be better they would have added more and maybe called it and "intermediate or even advanced guide"
 

DeletedUser

Guest
just one query, in specialization you state you want 9-10k axes, and 1.5k lc,

this may be stronger but if you want the quicker build your going to end up with around 6k axe and 3k lc if you have your barracks/stabe contstanlty pumping troops.

If I were going the strictly strongest attack method, I would say use 20k axes, the rest in rams. Mathematically that is the strongest attack setup, however in practice, something closer to what you said is the fastest.

On previous worlds where archers are active, I have found that a build somewhere near 7k axes, 1.25k LC, 1.25k MA, 225-250 rams is one of the fastest builds.
 

DeletedUser

Guest
I'm guessing you had to do a lot of work with the market for that though? all that wood and so little iron being used.

I think personally i will go for something around 6k axe, 2500 lc, 500 ar, 250 rams, which is around 20k pop leaving some space for trains ^^

p.s you no play W1?
 

DeletedUser

Guest
I'm guessing you had to do a lot of work with the market for that though? all that wood and so little iron being used.

I think personally i will go for something around 6k axe, 2500 lc, 500 ar, 250 rams, which is around 20k pop leaving some space for trains ^^
this is generally what i have used. it may not be the "best" but it works well. Without nobles I think you can get closer to 6.5k axes or 2750 LC... whatever finishes faster. Sometimes I go with a bit less MA though (300-400)

p.s you no play W1?
Could be an alias :icon_wink:
 

DeletedUser

Guest
No I didn't play w1, and no I didnt use the market. I farmed almost 24/7. Each village had almost 20 farm groups that were constantly bringing back full loads.
 
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